A Serious Cookie

OK, back to the butter. I have discovered the secret to absolutely perfect chocolate-chip cookies. It’s actually not butter (though undoubtedly, the butter only improves things). It’s salt – and lots of it. A whole teaspoon and a half, plus more for later. A couple weeks ago, my friend Sarah and I were at our friend Becca’s place, watching DVR’d episodes of Sixteen and Pregnant – television at its finest, I know – when Sarah asked Becca to make NY Times cookies. Rare is the friend who bakes cookies from scratch on request. And because these cookies were truly outstanding, Becca gets my vote for friend of the year.



Back to the story: I had no idea what New York Times cookies were, but I was told they are just about the best chocolate chip cookies on the planet. Thus began my journey into the mysterious world of salt and cookies. An unlikely pair, one would think. But writer David Leite was onto something when he wrote his recipe for the Times. It’s a bit of a hodgepodge of tips from the best bakeries in New York, not to mention some expert advice from famed chocolatier Jacques Torres. We’re in good hands.

These are the best homemade chocolate chip cookies I’ve ever had. Yes, they filled my apartment with the most amazing smell and took me back to childhood bake sales. And they’re certainly the kind of cookies that you can’t walk away from (I really tried, too, but there was nothing more appealing last weekend than these cookies. Indeed, “Meh, I’d rather eat cookies” was the response to every proposition that came my way). But these cookies go beyond all that. I’m not sure what it is. All I can say is that they’re sophisticated, grown up cookies. They’re not kidding around. I suspect one can chalk this up to the cake flour and bittersweet chocolate, as well as the 24-hour chilling period called for in the recipe. That’s bound to make anything somewhat serious.

I followed the recipe to the letter, with the exception of the Kitchenaid - more on that later. I even withstood the interminable 24 hour Big Chill. Read the Times article to find out the science – literally – behind the chilling process. Becca made her cookies right away. There was no discernible difference in deliciousness, but the textures were pretty contrasting: Becca’s cookies were thinner and crisper, while mine were cakey and thick. I don’t think one can be described as better, though. I’m quite diplomatic as far as these cookies are concerned.



I still don’t have a Kitchenaid Mixer (SAD), so blending the butter and sugars was a challenge to say the least (though quite the arm workout, I must say). I softened the butter in the microwave for about 20 seconds, and my wooden spoon and I went with God. I didn’t want to compromise the original recipe, which calls for a mixer, so I’ve left that part intact here. But those of you without one shouldn’t be afraid. These cookies are perfectly achievable with the old fashioned hand and spoon method. Just beat until all the ingredients are evenly incorporated.

Tips: After the dough has been chilled, let it rest at room temperature for a while before scooping - a half an hour is a good amount of time. And be sure to sprinkle sea salt on the cookies before and after baking. You'll be glad you did.

Chocolate Chip Cookies with Sea Salt
Adapted from The New York Times

Ingredients
2 c minus 2 Tbs cake flour (scoop it out of the measuring cup)
1 2/3 c bread flour
1 1/4 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 1/2 tsp coarse salt
2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 c) unsalted butter
1 1/4 c light brown sugar
1 c plus 2 Tbs granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/4 pounds bittersweet chocolate chips, with at least 60 percent cacao content. Ghirardelli is a nice brand.
Sea salt.

Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

Using a mixer fitted with paddle attachment (or not!) cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds. Add chocolate chips and mix. Press plastic wrap against dough and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. Dough may be used in batches, and can be refrigerated for up to 72 hours.

When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a siplat baking mat. Set aside.

Using a cooking scoop, spoon mounds of dough the size of golf balls onto baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt and bake until golden brown but still soft, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer sheet to a wire rack for 10 minutes, then slip cookies onto another rack to cool a bit more. Repeat with remaining dough, or reserve dough, refrigerated, for baking remaining batches the next day. Eat warm, with a big napkin.

Makes about 16 cookies.