That Good

I’m coming down from the high of an incredible weekend in South Carolina. I’m going through beach, food and all-together loveliness withdrawal. Dave and I headed down for our friends Eric and Signe’s wedding. It was truly beautiful. I was so impressed with all the personal touches E&S incorporated into the ceremony – from journals as party favors to cigar-box centerpieces overflowing with gorgeous green plants. One of my favorite things about the wedding was the food. It was all locally sourced, and all delicious. We had crab cakes and shrimp and grits, chicken stuffed with feta and spinach, butternut squash ravioli and the most exquisite simple salad of mixed greens, Mozzarella and basil. And the red velvet cake: oh, the red velvet cake.

Even though they weren’t in season, I was able to score a bag of boiled red peanuts on the road from this guy Boiled peanuts are the best Southern staple I can think of. Salty and soft, they remind me of porch swings and Bud Light Limes at Dave’s beach house on the Isle of Palms.

I’ll be sure to post pictures from our Southern journey soon. In the meantime, I thought I’d give you this recipe for classic Caesar salad inspired by two New York staples: Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo. Nobody does comfort Italian food better than these guys, as the perpetual lines outside their two Brooklyn establishments, Frankie’s 457 and Prime Meats, indicate. I was thrilled to receive an advanced copy of their Kitchen Companion, on sale in June. While I can’t wait to try all of the recipes in their book, I was particularly taken with their recipe for Caesar salad dressing. I’ve always wanted to make homemade Caesar salad, but feared the process was reserved for stuffy maitre’d’s and people who knew how to make raw eggs safe to eat (I am not one of those people). This dressing doesn’t use eggs at all, but instead relies on good old-fashioned Hellman’s mayonnaise, white pepper, and Pecorino Romano cheese for flavor. A few drops of Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce provide a subtle punch. It could not be simpler to make: all the ingredients are thrown into a blender, and the result is a creamy, silky dressing that rivals anything you would get in a swanky restaurant.



I’ve heard that a truly good dressing is one you’d want to drink all by itself. Well, this dressing is that good. I confess I “tasted it for flavor” by the spoonful. That being said, Caesar dressing – and any salad dressing - should be drizzled lightly over greens. Every leaf must be covered, but your salad should never be drowning in liquid - however delicious that liquid may be.

I decided to try my hand at making croutons, too. Because what's Caesar salad without croutons? I had a day-old whole wheat baguette that I put in the oven at 350 degrees for about seven minutes. Then I cut it up into squares, and toasted everything in a pan over medium heat with olive oil and chopped garlic. The croutons added substance to the lettuce and made for a pretty hearty meal. They weren't hard as rocks, as many croutons tend to be, yet still maintained a crunchy, toasty texture.

A sprinkle of grated Pecorino Romano and a generous squeeze of lemon juice were the perfect finishing touches. This salad makes a great appetizer and a surprisingly filling lunch.

Simple Caesar Salad

Whole Wheat Croutons
Ingredients
Day-old whole wheat baguette
1 Tbs olive oil
1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toast baguette for roughly 7 minutes. Remove from oven and cool. Chop bread into bite-size pieces. Heat olive oil in small skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and sautee for one minute. This will infuse the olive oil. Garlic burns easily, so be careful not to overcook. Add bread pieces to pan and toast for five minutes, making sure the bread is coated evenly on all sides. Remove from heat and let cool while you prepare the dressing.



Caesar Dressing
Adapted from The Frankie's Spuntino Kitchen Companion & Cooking Manual

Ingredients
1/3 c grated Pecorino Romano, plus additional cheese for serving
1/2 c Hellman's mayonnaise
1/4 c water
1 1/2 tsp red wine vinegar
1 garlic clove
1/4 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1/4 tsp Tabasco
8 turns freshly ground white pepper
Fine sea salt, if needed (this dressing will already be quite salty because of the red wine vinegar and Worcestershire)
Freshly ground black pepper

Combine 1/4 c of the Pecornio Romano with all the ingredients, except the black pepper, in a blender and puree 'til the dressing is smooth. If you don't have a blender, mince the garlic and whisk them together with the rest of the dressing ingredients. Taste and addL salt if necessary; loosen the dressing with water if needed.

Drizzle lightly over crisp, chilled Romaine hearts. You'll likely have a large portion of leftover dressing. Squeeze fresh lemon juice over greens. Toss and serve.

A Serious Cookie

OK, back to the butter. I have discovered the secret to absolutely perfect chocolate-chip cookies. It’s actually not butter (though undoubtedly, the butter only improves things). It’s salt – and lots of it. A whole teaspoon and a half, plus more for later. A couple weeks ago, my friend Sarah and I were at our friend Becca’s place, watching DVR’d episodes of Sixteen and Pregnant – television at its finest, I know – when Sarah asked Becca to make NY Times cookies. Rare is the friend who bakes cookies from scratch on request. And because these cookies were truly outstanding, Becca gets my vote for friend of the year.



Back to the story: I had no idea what New York Times cookies were, but I was told they are just about the best chocolate chip cookies on the planet. Thus began my journey into the mysterious world of salt and cookies. An unlikely pair, one would think. But writer David Leite was onto something when he wrote his recipe for the Times. It’s a bit of a hodgepodge of tips from the best bakeries in New York, not to mention some expert advice from famed chocolatier Jacques Torres. We’re in good hands.

These are the best homemade chocolate chip cookies I’ve ever had. Yes, they filled my apartment with the most amazing smell and took me back to childhood bake sales. And they’re certainly the kind of cookies that you can’t walk away from (I really tried, too, but there was nothing more appealing last weekend than these cookies. Indeed, “Meh, I’d rather eat cookies” was the response to every proposition that came my way). But these cookies go beyond all that. I’m not sure what it is. All I can say is that they’re sophisticated, grown up cookies. They’re not kidding around. I suspect one can chalk this up to the cake flour and bittersweet chocolate, as well as the 24-hour chilling period called for in the recipe. That’s bound to make anything somewhat serious.

I followed the recipe to the letter, with the exception of the Kitchenaid - more on that later. I even withstood the interminable 24 hour Big Chill. Read the Times article to find out the science – literally – behind the chilling process. Becca made her cookies right away. There was no discernible difference in deliciousness, but the textures were pretty contrasting: Becca’s cookies were thinner and crisper, while mine were cakey and thick. I don’t think one can be described as better, though. I’m quite diplomatic as far as these cookies are concerned.



I still don’t have a Kitchenaid Mixer (SAD), so blending the butter and sugars was a challenge to say the least (though quite the arm workout, I must say). I softened the butter in the microwave for about 20 seconds, and my wooden spoon and I went with God. I didn’t want to compromise the original recipe, which calls for a mixer, so I’ve left that part intact here. But those of you without one shouldn’t be afraid. These cookies are perfectly achievable with the old fashioned hand and spoon method. Just beat until all the ingredients are evenly incorporated.

Tips: After the dough has been chilled, let it rest at room temperature for a while before scooping - a half an hour is a good amount of time. And be sure to sprinkle sea salt on the cookies before and after baking. You'll be glad you did.

Chocolate Chip Cookies with Sea Salt
Adapted from The New York Times

Ingredients
2 c minus 2 Tbs cake flour (scoop it out of the measuring cup)
1 2/3 c bread flour
1 1/4 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 1/2 tsp coarse salt
2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 c) unsalted butter
1 1/4 c light brown sugar
1 c plus 2 Tbs granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/4 pounds bittersweet chocolate chips, with at least 60 percent cacao content. Ghirardelli is a nice brand.
Sea salt.

Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

Using a mixer fitted with paddle attachment (or not!) cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds. Add chocolate chips and mix. Press plastic wrap against dough and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. Dough may be used in batches, and can be refrigerated for up to 72 hours.

When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a siplat baking mat. Set aside.

Using a cooking scoop, spoon mounds of dough the size of golf balls onto baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt and bake until golden brown but still soft, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer sheet to a wire rack for 10 minutes, then slip cookies onto another rack to cool a bit more. Repeat with remaining dough, or reserve dough, refrigerated, for baking remaining batches the next day. Eat warm, with a big napkin.

Makes about 16 cookies.

A Soup With Panache

I've been feeding you too much butter lately, so I decided to make you some soup. I think our waistlines will thank us. This pea soup is really a delight. It's soft and elegant, with some fresh mint that gives it panache. I bet you won't even miss the butter. I like any excuse to use my big red soup pot, too. It doesn't get nearly as much activity as I imagined it would when I spotted it at the Tanger Outlet in Pennsylvania last summer, visions of soups and stocks dancing in my head.



I think this pea soup does the pot proud. It's a nice in-between-seasons soup that can be served warm or chilled. I like it best chilled, though. Something about the cold soup and the mint is incredibly refreshing, and makes me think summer can't be too far away.

I enjoyed a bowl with a hunk of bread and butter (of course). I can't say it's all that substantial on its own, though I bet it's a lovely accompaniment to salads and pasta.



Chilled Pea Soup with Mint
Adapted from Bon Appetit

Ingredients
1 Tbs olive oil
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
4 c shelled fresh peas, or two 16-ounce bags of frozen peas, unthawed (I like Cascadian Farms organic).
2 3/4 c low-sodium chicken stock
1/4 c chopped fresh mint, plus more for garnish
Salt and pepper to taste

This soup purees beautifully. Just be sure to pulse in your blender or food processor in small batches, since hot foods expand when blended.

Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic. Saute until tender, about 7 minutes. Add peas and stir for 1 minute. Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until peas are very tender, 8 to 10 minutes (or about 15, if you're using frozen peas). Cool soup for 15 minutes. Puree soup and 1/4 c mint in batches in food processor or blender 'til smooth. Season with salt and pepper, cover and chill for one hour.

Ladle into bowls and garnish with additional mint.

Something Everyone Can Get Behind

Happy Easter, bunnies! I hope everyone ate lots of fantastic food on Sunday. I cooked a bourbon and brown sugar glazed ham, a roast chicken with lots of lemon and garlic, some sort of delicious braised cabbage dish (which was infinitely better than it sounds)...and these carrot cake Whoopie pies. You may not celebrate Easter. You may not eat meat. You may detest and downright avoid cabbage like the plague. But I’m certain carrot cake Whoopie pies are something everyone can get behind. I was dumbstruck at how easy they are to make and how over-the-top amazing they turned out to be. I made a test-batch on Friday night (the contents of which were devoured by friends and my parents) and I kept making them straight through to Sunday. We ran out more than once.

I invested in two silpat mats, and let me tell you, they are magical. You can literally pick the cookies (or biscuits, or scones, or whatever you put on the baking sheet) off the mat as soon as they come out of the oven. No sticking, prying or scraping. No burnt bottoms. I’m told it’s wise to purchase two silpat mats and use one for sweet things and one for savory things. The flavors tend to linger because you can’t wash silpat mats in the dishwasher. But some warm water and soap is really all you need to get them clean, anyway.

The best thing about Easter is carrot cake. I’m a fan of these Whoopie pies not only because they are a lighter alternative to typical carrot cake, but also because they are outrageously simple to make. In fact, it’s their simplicity that I love: they’re little individual cakes (well, pies, actually) and there’s no arguing over who gets the bigger slice. You needn’t worry about baking three separate cakes, then layering and frosting each one to make a traditional carrot cake. You don’t have time. And you have this recipe.

Carrot Cake Whoopie Pies
Adapted from Gourmet

Ingredients
1 1/8 c all-purpose flour
2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 stick (1/2 c) unsalted butter, softened
1/3 c plus 2 Tbs packed light brown sugar
1/3 c plus 2 Tbs granulated sugar
1 large egg
1/2 tsp vanilla
1 c coarsely grated carrots (about 2 medium) I like to buy bags of pre-grated carrots and give them a rough chop to make them a bit tinier.
1/2 c raisins
8 oz. cream cheese
1/4 c honey, or slightly more, to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees, putting an oven rack in the middle.

Whisk together flour, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. Set aside.

Mix together butter, sugars, egg, and vanilla in a bowl and beat for about 2 minutes. Gently fold in carrots and raisins, then add flour mixture and stir until just combined.

Chill dough in freezer for 15 minutes.

Drop roughly 1 Tbs batter per cookie 2 inches apart (an ice cream or cookie scoop works great) on silplat mats or a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and bake until cookies are lightly browned and cake-like, about 16 minutes. Cool cookies on sheets for 1 minute, then transfer cookies to racks to cool completely.

While cookies are baking, whisk together cream cheese and honey until smooth.

Sandwich flat sides of cookies together with a generous dollop of cream cheese filling in between.

I couldn’t wait to eat these (hence, the Friday-night devouring) but they do take on a more Whoopie-pie-like quality on the second day – and if you can wait that long, well, you’re much, much stronger than me.

Better With Time

I’m an instant-gratification kind of girl. I don’t like waiting for packages from Amazon when there’s a perfectly decent (and privately owned!) bookstore down the road. I’m not a fan of postponing a purchase in the hopes that it will go on sale. And when it comes to baking, I can barely wait five minutes – let alone “til cooled completely” – to try whatever just came out of the oven. Because of this, my tongue has been singed more times than I care to admit. However, I’m pleased to tell you my patience is expanding – albeit slowly. Exhibit A: my two-day no-knead bread.

In life, sometimes a day of rest is exactly what’s needed. In baking, the same thing is true. That’s why I’m a fan of these walnut tarts. I admit I had my doubts after they came out of the oven (and I burnt my fingers prying them out of the muffin tins), but a day in a sealed Tupperware container did wonders for them. The walnuts and cream cheese crust needed to adjust to one another, to coexist rather than compete. Relationships take time, after all. After a day, the tarts really soften and the butter adds depth to the brown sugar and nuts. That’s likely because I adjusted the butter in the filling to 1 tablespoon instead of 1 teaspoon, but the day-in-Tupperware thing helps.

I think it’s fair, even appropriate, to categorize these tarts as make-ahead treats. They only get better with time.

Feel free to substitute pecans for the walnuts, or to make a mixture of both. I ended up with more dough than filling, so I froze the remaining crust. It was just Dave and me, and the two of us didn’t need 24 tarts. Though I’m pretty sure we could have eaten them all.



You probably noticed the half-eaten tart to the left of center. Like I said, I'm trying to be more patient. It's a work in progress.

Golden Walnut and Cream Cheese Tarts
Adapted from The Gastronomy of Marriage, by Michelle Maisto

Ingredients for Tart Crust:
8 ounces cream cheese
1 stick butter
1 cup flour

Ingredients for Walnut or Pecan Tart Filling:
1 egg, beaten
3/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup chopped pecans or walnuts
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 Tbs butter, melted

Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place muffin tray(s) in the fridge so that it gets cool. Mix the crust ingredients together and place a teaspoon of the crust dough into each muffin cup. Push the dough into the cup to form a “pie crust” that is about as thick as an orange peel. Return the muffin tin to the fridge so that it stays cool while you make the filling. Mix all of the filling ingredients together. Grease muffin tins with butter (this is important: the tarts won’t come out of the tins unless they’re greased. Believe me, I pried). Spoon a little filling mixture into each crust. Do not fill the tins completely. Bake 20-30 minutes or until your tarts are a light brown color. Cool completely and remove from tins. Store in Tupperware at room temperature.

Makes 24 tarts.