A Simple Sauce

What is it about tomato sauce? It's so seemingly simple, yet so hard to get just right. I'm in awe of those old-school Italian women who wake up early on Sunday, go to church, and spend the rest of the day making sauce. While I'll never be that kind of woman, Mario Batali's Bolognese sauce at least lets me pretend that I am. It's absolutely delicious and virtually impossible to mess up. It's the kind of sauce I want to call "gravy" (hearty, filling and all sorts of comforting).



Bolognese sauce can be spooned over any sort of pasta, but I like it with a thick pappardelle. Trader Joe's makes a lovely lemon and peppercorn version.

And of course, Pepperidge Farm garlic bread is encouraged.

This recipe calls for a pound of ground veal and a pound of ground pork. I recommend going to a butcher, who will grind and combine it fresh. Quality, fresh meat makes a big difference.

Perfect Bolognese Sauce
Adapted from Mario Batali

2 medium onions, finely chopped
4 celery ribs, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 lb pancetta, finely chopped (bacon also works here)
1 pound ground veal
1 pound ground pork (not lean)
1 6 oz. can tomato paste
1 c whole milk
1 c dry white wine (something you would want to drink)
1 c water
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1 1/4 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp black pepper

Heat oil in a 6-to-8-quart heavy pot over moderate heat. Add onions, celery, carrot, and garlic, stirring occasionally, until softened (about 5 minutes).

Add pancetta, veal, and pork and cook over moderately high heat, stirring and breaking up lumps with a wooden spoon, until nicely browned and no longer pink (about 6 minutes).

Stir in tomato paste, milk, wine, water, and thyme and gently simmer, covered, until sauce is thickened, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. The longer the sauce simmers, the more it thickens--and the better it tastes. If you can, let the sauce simmer for 3 to 4 hours. Add salt and pepper and remove from heat.

This sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead. Cool, uncovered, before chilling in the fridge. Frozen, it keeps for about a month.